PERU - Marcelino Chinguel Lot#2 - Ethiosar - Natural Process 250g
Ethiosar is a fabulous new varietal (hybrid details in the section below). This super-rare coffee is an absolute delight, hitting the sweet spot between fruity and floral but with a full and rounded richness that is impossible to resist.
The journey starts with an elderflower and guava nose overlaying a delicious core of sticky mango. In the cup, this coffee displays gooseberry and pink grapefruit acidity and tropical juicy sweetness in perfect balance.
The finish is astonishingly long. Truly a coffee to sip and savour.
LOCATION: EL LAUREL, LA COIPA, SAN IGNACIO, JAEN
Ethiosar is a hybrid of the Ethiopian varietal Rume Sudan and Sarchimor. Those varietals are themselves hybrids. Rume Sudan is a Typica mutation out of Ethiopia. Sarchimor is a hybrid of Villa Sarchi, a natural dwarf mutation of Bourbon and Timor which is a cross between Robusta and Arabica species. This complex heritage means that there is a lot of genetic diversity in its makeup to offer not only disease resistance and yields but a vibrant cup profile.
Don Marcelino Chinguel had been growing coffee for most of his life (well over forty years!) but despite this he is always willing to explore and change his way of thinking. This lot represent that spirit and is the first lot produced by him of the Ethiosar variety that Marcelino planted in 2018 on his farm.
On the farm, La Lucuma, he lives with his family and they are taking care of most of the work that needs to be carried out, hiring eight pickers only during the harvest. Within the family they had been spreading the workload in specific areas of responsibilities: Marcelino is taking care of the administration and sales duties, his wife manages the post harvesting protocols, Franclin the oldest son is in charge of the picking, and the youngest son Yocner is the QC manager.
This lot his process as natural and after picking is hand sorted, floated and left to rest for 16 hours before being laid out to dry on raised beds in the solar drier for around 20 to 30 days.
Falcon Coffees have been working in Northern Peru for several years, buying specialty coffee from cooperatives and associations with whom they have built lasting relationships. Whilst a lot of the arrival quality seen in previous seasons has been good, they have struggled to impact upon that quality or make improvements in the supply chain as we would like. More importantly, the premiums they had been paying for quality rarely makes it directly back to producers, something we have had very little control over in previous years.
In Peru, like some other origins, coffee farmers are sensitive to market changes and often lack basic training and the incentive to produce higher qualities of coffee, as premiums often don’t materialise. For these reasons Falcon decided they needed to change the way they buy coffee in Peru and work directly with producers, allowing them to control and improve upon existing quality and have full financial traceability. Ensuring these two factors would help us to pay higher prices for the coffees and to make sure that producers received a fair price for the coffee they delivered us, above the market price. In order to do this, Falcon set up a warehouse in Jaen and started to buy in parchment directly from producers.
The Cajamarca region holds a lot of potential for quality coffee, with ideal growing conditions and great varieties, but quality is often lost in picking, processing and drying, with producers lacking infrastructure and knowledge. The most vulnerable producers are those that are unassociated – those who aren’t members of a cooperative, association or organisation – and they represent 75% of producers in Northern Peru. These producers don’t have access to training sessions or premiums for quality or certifications, and their income is totally dependent on the market price. Often, local aggregators – a buyer who lives in the same area – will come to the farm or house of a producer and buy their coffee for cash before selling it on; in some cases, directly to an exporter or more often to other traders and middlemen. This results in the producer being paid very little for their coffee and a lot of quality coffee is lost.
This shift in approach to sourcing will allow us to forge long term relationships directly with farmers, improve the coffee quality we can offer from these areas and increase producer household income through access to quality premiums. We now have over 438 registered farmers across the San Ignacio and Jaen provinces.